Taken From the Top: on Beautiful Views

In my last post, I included photos of just a few of the many stairs I climbed during my vacation to Europe in May/June 2009. There were a LOT more that aren't pictured, too. The thing about historical buildings and monuments is that the builders didn't include elevators when they built them many hundreds of years ago. This may seem obvious for simple technological reasons, but the reality of climbing a narrow, winding staircase, with another hundred tourists immediately behind you and no way to pass, is an entirely other adventure. Three hundred or so seems to be the magic number when it comes to steps in important landmarks: Tower of Pisa, Italy, 298; Arc de Triomphe, Paris, 284; Duomo tower, Florence, 463; St. Peter's Basilica Dome, Vatican City, 320...

It's not really the steps I want to talk about here, however, it's the reason we climb all those steps. As humans, we are somehow compelled to seek the VIEW. I'm sure there have been studies on this subject, likely revealing some connection to territory, defense, or the like, but all of that is generations behind us. It's unlikely that I am ever going to have the need to "hold the high ground" at any point in my life. And yet, like everyone else, and despite being physically unfit for the activity, I too must climb those stairs.

Interestingly enough, every place I stayed on my vacation was on the top floor of the building or hotel. Most of these, to accommodate lazy tourists like myself, are now equipped with elevators. I wish I had taken pictures of those elevators: upright coffins that fit (hah!) 2 people or one person and luggage. In Rome, Eddie and I stayed in the Felini B & B--a great place a short stroll from both the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. It's hard choosing a hotel from afar, even with guides and reviews, but in this case we couldn't have done better. The "private terrace" in the ad ended up being the entire roof of the building! Opening the door from our room, we could enjoy our morning breakfast (brought to our room on a tray each morning as a part of the room rate!), afternoon wine, and end-of-the-day rest while watching the sights and sounds of Rome.

The thing about views is that they are wonderful to experience, but they are pretty darned hard to capture with the camera. I have dozens of shots taken from the tops of buildings and monuments, but they simply don't portray what it's like actually being there. Without the breeze, scents, and sounds of the heights, a picture can only hint at the experience.

These pictures of Eddie and I on the Tower of Pisa are nice, but it's hard to describe how it felt to stand on the top of a building that is 600+ years old--one which I had seen in pictures throughout my entire life. Europeans are surrounded by such history every day, but as an American tourist, I always feel a sense of awe when placing my feet where so many others have stood--or taking in the same view once taken in by the likes of Galileo.


















Later in the evening after our climb, when having dinner with Eddie's mom, Gioia, and some family friends, I got to hear stories about the Tower--adding a whole new dimension to the view. Family legend has it that Eddie's grandfather Sergio jumped off the lower balcony of the tower as a young boy, umbrella extended for flight. (Something certainly not possible today!) While he did become an Italian military pilot later in life, he was not supernaturally gifted with flight, and broke his ankle in the fall.

Just as stories related to places can add add more to our experience, climbing to the top can reveal things not otherwise evident from the ground. In Paris, for instance, I was surrounded by the beautiful architecture of the central city, where the majority of tourists spend their time. Getting above the street level, a whole new Paris emerges, as evident in these pictures taken from the Arc de Triomphe and Centre Pompidou:



















Unlike their bolder, big-city kin, picturesque towns don't make the transition to photographs as successfully. Deià, on the western Mallorca coast, is a favorite destination when we visit the family; the charming town wanders up the hillside, and the main road is lined with cafes, small shops, and artist galleries. And, even seeing the houses with tile roofs and green shutters--the standard on the island--makes me want to return to my mother-in-law's house in Alaró for another visit. In fact, I have dozens of shots, taken on various visits over the past 15 years, that are almost identical to this one. But how can I resist documenting this view once again?


From Mallorca, I almost always take a few days to revel in Barcelona. It's an amazing city--one I continue to call my favorite. I've been to Barcelona 4-5 times, but on this visit I went to Tibidabo, the highest peak in Barcelona, for the first time. To get there, my friend Andrea and I took the metro to the end of one line, hopped a 1901 trolley that clambered up a mansion- lined residential street, and then transferred to a funicular that swept us to the top of the mountain. This mountain-top destination has three attractions: an amusement park, a restaurant/bar, and a church. I actually took this photo from the balcony of the church--after climbing 50-60 steps--and was really looking forward to a cold beer after my descent. But first, of course, the view. To our misfortune, it was the one overcast day of our stay in Barcelona, so we couldn't see as far as advertised. Regardless, Andrea and I left feeling well-rewarded after having conquered the mountain.

There are other Barcelona views that I simply can't get enough of, and to which I return again and again. These pictures, taken from the rooftops of Casa Batlló and La Padrera, demonstrate the attraction:



















Of all the "view" pictures I took on this trip, though, the one below, taken from the tower of Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, is my favorite. I love Gaudí's cathedral-in-progress, and this photo includes elements of the cathedral's architecture, reveals the construction process, and includes a backdrop of Barcelona.


It's an appropriate picture to leave you with--and a teaser for my next post, on Gaudí's art and architecture. Stay tuned and keep your eye to the horizon!