On our second day of gallavanting, the sun once again shone in clear skies. We started our explorations with a short drive, covering only 12 miles before stopping at the Sea Lion Caves. We've passed this attraction a number of times without stopping, as it don't look like much from the outside--just another cheesy tourist stop. However, Eddie's mother, Gioia, always talks about how much she and Richard enjoyed going their on their trips between Portland and Eureka. And, this is, after all, our gallavanting vacation. We decided to make the stop and check out this natural wonder.
And, a wonder it was! After passing through the standard shlocky gift shop entry, we encountered stunning views of the Oregon Coast and a lighthouse. Making our way down the trail, we spied large groups of sea lions in the surf below. We've seen plenty of sea lions before--and even large groups of them, like the ones at Pier 39 in San Francisco--but we've never seen so many swimming together. They bobbed and dived in the ocean's waves, looking as playful as I've ever seen sea lions look.
As it turned out, though, that first view was nothing compared to what awaited us. After strolling along a short path, we took an elevator more than 200 feet down and disembarked into a cave system from which we could observe the sea lions.
The noise is tremendous: the pounding crash of the turbulent sea against the cave walls competed with the bellows of the sea lions. Hundreds of sea lions of all sizes lounged on ledges,
dove into the water,
and scampered on the rocks.
The large groups we spied from the cliff organized here: outgoing groups of sea lions would plunge into the water, join forces, and head out to sea, while incoming groups emerged from the water, hoisted themselves into the rocks, and bickered with each other for space.
We could have stayed for hours, watching the sea lions and the world they inhabit. However, we decided to head down the road.
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I've long been a fan of the amazing Monterey Aquarium, so I was a bit skeptical when Lonely Planet claimed that there is a "world-class aquarium" in Newport, Oregon. What convinced us to stop was the promise of a giant octopus and "an impressive deep-sea exhibit where you walk under Plexiglas tunnels and get an eyeful of sharks and rays."
Having made the decision to stop, we were still a bit apprehensive as we approached the aquarium, as a large complex of brightly colored gift stores, gaudy amusements, and cheap restaurants lined the road. Once we passed through the aquarium gates, however, the beautiful grounds and wonderfully maintained facility enticed us with excellent exhibits. Eddie even had the chance to swim with piranhas!
The aquarium contained many standard attractions and a few we haven't seen before. For instance, these Japanese crabs may not look like anything special in this picture, but they were 2-3 feet high and stood in a line, eerily motionless. According to the volunteer docent, mature crabs may have a nine-feet span from claw to claw!
As in Monterey, there was a shallow, raised pool where we could interact with some sea creatures. This beautiful basket starfish was not among them, but there was an impressive array of other stars, urchins, crabs and anemones. The volunteer encouraged us to stick our finger between the spines of a sea urchin, and we were surprised when they tightened around our fingers. A white sea anemone was closed, but it was so soft to the touch that you almost couldn't feel it.
In addition to the tanks and displays inside, there were a wide array of outdoor exhibits: sea lions, seals, otters, and an aviary. Unfortunately, the octopus was cowering in its niche, but there were many other wonders to explore.
Throughout the aquarium there were interesting works of art, such as the fish sculpture Eddie and I stood in front of in the picture that opened this aquarium segment.
Looking more closely, we found that the pieces were created from trash collected on the beaches or Oregon.
By using these discarded materials, the artist created visually pleasing displays while delivering a message of environmental responsibility--more appealing than the preachy exhibits often found at other nature museums.
Finally, we made our way to the exhibit that we had been waiting for: Passages of the Deep. Three Plexiglas tunnels offered us underwater views of different sea zones. It was remarkable to stand under giant stingrays as they soared overhead.
Eddie's eyes lit up as streams of anchovies swam around us, and I was particularly taken by schools of halibut: among my favorite fish at the sushi bar.
Next Stop?
Lunch!
* * * * *
Further up 101, we entered Depoe Bay, a blip on the road with breathtaking views, a possible lunch stop, and, apparently, very learned cats.
The town also brags that it has the smallest harbor in the world. It's a mere dip in the coastline, with room for two Coast Guard boats and a few dozen commercial and sport-fishing rigs. Our lunch spot was closed, but the opportunity to see a boat enter the harbor made us happy we had stopped.
For some time, the craft hovered outside the harbor's entrance, gauging the current and crashing waves. Finally, with engines fully engaged, the boat zoomed into the narrow entrance and up the channel, as crowds cheered and waved from the observation deck and bridge. Captains and deckhands must love calling Depoe Bay home base, as each return to port involves a hero's welcome!
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Daylight was fading as we drove up the coast, and we had a ways to go before our destination of Seaside. When Eddie spotted this blimp hangar across the field, however, we agreed that one more stop was in order before calling it a day.
The Tilamook Air Museum is another of those treasures in the middle of nowhere: a rare World War II blimp hangar housing over 30 war birds and other unusual aircraft. Just entering the hangar is awe inspiring, as the huge dome--amazingly enough made entirely of wood--soars overhead. In the 1990s they actually hosted an indoor hot air balloon exhibition here, with 27 balloons in flight at the same time!
The Russian MIG was one of Eddie's favorites.
I was particularly fond of 
the murals painted on the American fighter planes. Here is one of the best: Rosie's Raiders--depicting a gun-toting, naked Rosie surrounded by the falling planes of enemies.
A documentary about the construction of the hangar and the use of blimps as escorts for ships and subs into harbors on the west coast provided insight to the facility's purpose. Few remnants of the blimp history remain, other than the Helium Room. I suggested to Eddie that we talk in high, squeaky voices when in the room. As it turned out, it seemed appropriate preparation for visiting the one blimp in the hangar:
"Take me to your leader!"
When aliens failed to beam us up, we piloted our own vessel up the coast to Seaside for a night of well-deserved rest.
Day 4 dawned, and we appreciated our wonderful apartment even more once we saw the view from our windows and deck. While we had a few great days on the road, we were also happy to stay in one place for a couple days and enjoy the local sites. We had had the foresight to pick up groceries when we arrived in town, so we enjoyed a leisurely morning, with Eddie changing his driving hat for his chef's hat.
From our perspective, this failure to thrive was a good thing. A lack of funds meant that local buildings and facilities were not "improved" with the municipal eyesores that abound in towns that prospered in the 1960s-80s. Instead, things appear to be much the same in Port Townsend as they were when it was founded--further improved when a revitalization hit the town in the 1990s, after it earned National Historic Landmark designation. All in all, we had a nice afternoon strolling the main street, touring Fort Worden, and driving (It continued to be COLD!) through residential neighborhoods with beautiful Victorian houses.
